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Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Wenatchee Forest

IBEX Tales - Stories and Notes Photo Albums - Selected Slides Chronology of Climbs and Trips Cross Reference of Peaks, Flixs and Trips Image files FOR SALE - Image List My Farorite Web Places Adventure Selection Map

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Climbs in the Enchanted Place

20 Jun 1977

05 032 Rudi M The Chisel in Tumwater Canyon. (272k)

 

05 033 scan Randy L on Dinosaur Rk at Pashastine. (260)

 

05 034 Randy L Rattlesnake Rock Tumwater Canyon (214k)

 

Rock climbing in the Tumwater Canyon near Leavenworth is like visiting a different planet. The whole scene is an ever evolving culture that is driven by the fad of the day & latest techno aids.

 

 

05 060 North Face Tents at 8 Mile Camp. (296k)

 

05 061 Warren on Trigger Finger Peshastin Pinnacles (146k)

Between Leavenworth and Wenatchee in eastern Washington State are the sandstone crags of Peshastin Pinnacles. Every spring the climbers arrive to hone their skills and test their courage. For many years the signature climb at Peshastin was the narrow spire named Trigger Finger. Then one spring when the climbers arrived for the season, they found that Trigger Finger had not survived the winter and an era had ended.

 

05 062 Grand Central Tower Peshastin John P. (184k)

 

05 063 Warren Hands After Classic Crack. (233k)

 

05 064 John B on Winter Solstice Castle Rock (265k)

Of the many practice rock climbing areas in Tumwater Canyon, Castle Rock has become the most popular due to its close proximity to the highway, excellent diorite rock and wide variety of routes. These climbers are on the oldest and most popular route called Midway. The 1965 climbing guide calls for 4 piton and 2 hours to complete the climb. Midway has now been climbed in 10 min, also at night, and descended.

 

05 065 Rudis Cousin John Putt At Castle Rk. (147k)

 

05 066 North face route on Dragontail Peak (260k)

The large granite massif of Dragontail Peak is the second-highest summit in the Stuart Range. The name originates from the miniature "tails" or rock needles on the thin crest southeast of the summit. Shown here, the expansive three thousand foot northwest face, rising above the moraines and ice of Colchuck Glacier, is one of the finest walls in all the Cascade Range. The North Face route climbs straight up the center.

 

05 067 John B on the N face of Dragontail Pk (194k)

 

Climbing the North Face route on Dragontail Peak, the climbers pause to gather water from a small snow patch. The milky blue lake is Colchuck Lake in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 1977

 

 

05 070 John B John P Others on Dragontail. (178k)

 

05 071 John B Rudi M & John P Dragontail Peak (257k)

Climbing together, but on separated rope teams, the red rope and blue rope climb onto The Fin near the top of Dragontail's North Face route. Most of the first ascents of Dragontail Peak from the Colchuck side came over a short period of time during the early 1970s. The first route to fall was the NE Couloir followed by Backbone Ridge, Hidden Couloir, North Face direct, and then NE Buttress; all FA made by different teams.

 

05 072 John P Near Summit of Dragontail. (190k)

 

05 073 John B John P Rudi M Dragontail summit. (254k)

 

05 074 North Face Dragontail Peak. (263k)

 

05 075 Both Johns at Mosquito Rock on Colchuck Lk. (161k)

 

05 076 Rudi M & John P ascend Colchuck Gl (248k)

Tucked under the Northwest Wall of Dragontail Peak and rising steeply from the south shore of Colchuck Lake is the Colchuck Glacier. One of the last dwindling remnants of a once massive ice sheet that filled Icicle Canyon with a 2000 foot thick glacier. As the glacier slowly retreats to its head at Banshee Pass, the milky blue waters twenty five hundred feet below still proclaim its active existence with powdery glacial till. 6/77

 

05 077 Mt Stuart & Sherpa Peak from Colchuck Pk (222k)

West from the summit of Colchuck Peak are the rugged northeast flanks of Sherpa Pk and Mount Stuart. The climbing history of these shear walls and precipitous ridges has a reoccurring theme, that being, Dave Mahre and the Prater brothers; Gene and Bill. Most of the first ascents on these northeast exposures occurred in the mid to late 1950s and included all or parts of the noted climbing trio. Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

 

05 078 Rudi M John P up Bull Durham Tower. (279k)

 

05 079 Climbers on Bull Durham with Rooster Finch (181k)

In the summer of 1977 we find the climbers in a feeding frenzy amongst the excellent granite towers of the wild and rugged Stuart Range. Here the climbers are on Bull Durham Tower with Rooster Finch Tower above; both located on the jagged Southwest Ridge of Dragontail Pk. These easy rock towers were both first climbed in Aug of '63 by J Wickwire and F Stanley. Leavenworth Ranger District, Wenatchee Forest.

 

05 080 Rooster Finch Tower Rudi M Warren. (260k)

 

05 081 Warren near Mist Pond & Aasgard Pass (207k)

Perched on a shard of granite, high above Mist Pond near Aasgard Pass, this climber displays a confidence of balance gained through many days bouldering and sport climbing. In such an environment were any slip could be your last, the climbers acclimatize to the exposure by sharply tuning their concentration level so no other distracting thought clouds their mind. This mental cleansing provides a euphoric escape.

 

05 082 Dragontail Plateau. (171k)

 

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