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IBEXtrax.com - Cascade Mountains of Washington StateNorth Cascades Park |
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04 048 Picket Range Terror Grp McMillan Cirque P1 (264k)
It is understandable why the Picket Range remained unexplored for so long, even on foot. Even the notoriously fearless prospectors made no claim to visits in this extremely rugged area. It was not until 1963 that the first recorded alpine traverse was made of the Picket Range when Alex Bertulis and Half Zantop came in from the south on a harrowing 10-day trek. Southern Picket Range; North Cascades National Park. 7/76
04 049 Picket Range from Luna Pk Mt Fury Pan2 (258k)
From the summit of Luna Peak, Mount Fury and Outrigger Pk fuse with the rugged topography in the center of the Picket Range. In the distant center is the dominant rounded hulk of Mount Blum. The Mt Blum was once called "Old Baldy" or "Baldy", and then was later formally named for John Blum, a Forest Service fire patrol pilot who was killed in a tragic crashed near Snoqualmie Pass in 1931. North Cascade Park. July 76.
04 050 Mt Baker and Mt Shuksan Luna Cirque Pan3 (284k)
From the false summit (West Point) of Luna Peak, Mount Baker and Mt Shuksan frame Crooked Thumb Peak beyond Luna Cirque. While near New Dungeness on April 29, 1792, Joseph Baker, an officer with Captain George Vancouver, first sighted the white-hued volcano. Vancouver named the mountain for him. To the Lummi tribe of Puget Sound, the glacial clad cone was Koma Kulshan. North Cascade National Park. 7/76.
04 051 Luna High Route Big Beaver and Jack's Mtn (209k)
Looking out the Luna High Route from the summit of Luna Peak. This view East is down Big Beaver Creek. Jack's Mtn is in the distance on the far side of Ross Lake. North Cascades 7/76
Eventually we scrambled back down to the "Dry-out" rock. While we were packing up our gear, a six inch, brown furry rodent scampered over and tried to swipe my sleeping bag. I thought it was a Pica at first. But, the fur was dark and the ears were different. We finally decided that it must be the now legendary Snaffle Hound described in Beckey's Challenge of the North Cascades. The bob tailed varmint tried to boldly snaffle my parka right off my lap and I had to swat at his ears to get him to let go. And then, as the stubby legged 'Hound scrambled between my legs, he set its little buck teeth into my sleeping bag again and then shook his head viciously like a playful dog. I tried and tried to capture the intriguing little beast on film. However, the camera shy thief got away before I could set up a good shot.
Before John and I left Luna Pass,
We visually traced out our intended route across Luna Cirque, and then surveyed the way up Challenger Arm. We then picked an alternate route just in case. We apply another coat of Clown White on our faces to combat the blinding sunshine. Then we started down in search of water. We use a standing glissade to descent toward Luna Lake. We took advantage of the first bubbling fountain of ice water and thoroughly quenched our thirsts. When we came to a cliff with a waterfall, we detoured left via a wooded ledge. After plunging and jogging down through some avalanche balls, we passed Luna Lake on the west side. I stretched out my stride and increase speed as John and I passed beneath the hanging ice on Mount Fury. The fast pace continued until we rested on the far side of the Lousy Lake moraine. The moraine is said to be one of the most perfect in the North Cascades.
04 056 Warren at Luna Falls glissade route (232k)
The descent to Luna Lake was a boot glissade. Like skiing without skies. The climbers had to choose the route through the cliffs above the lake. This route would be a poor choice. 7/76
04 058 Crooked Thumb Mt Challenger Luna Cirque (234k)
Crooked Thumb Peak and Mount Challenger are the northern hinge of a splendid continuity of hanging glaciers that ring the head of the Luna Creek cirque. Mt Challenger, with its provocative name, consists of a series of quartz diorite rock-horn summits that anchor the jagged Picket Range on the Northwest. The Mt Challenger first ascent on September 7,1936 was one of the earliest regional climbs in the North Cascades.76
04 059 Traversing below an Icefall John B (259k)
Traveling in a remote mountain range and days away from the nearest road, the climbers assume a certain level of uncontrollable risk. Some of the risk can be minimized by using common sense and by following a few simple rules. One important rule is to recognize areas prone to avalanche and adjust your route accordingly. By quickly passing through danger zones and not stopping for photos is also sound advice. 76
04 060 Lousy Lake is the source of Luna Ck (241k)
The very symmetrical nineteenth century moraine in Luna Cirque is said to be one of the most perfect in the North Cascades. The flattish area behind the moraine dam and above the small "Lousy Lake" is underlain by stagnant glacial ice. The ice is protected from melting by a layer of rock debris. In the distance at the foot of Luna Ck is Mount Prophet. It is named for early prospector and religious fanatic Tommy Rowland. 76
04 061 Mt Fury with crevasses of Luna Glacier (219k)
The West Peak of Mount Fury above the heavily crevassed Luna Creek Glacier. More than any other peak, Fury epitomizes the grand alpine wilderness of the amazing Picket Range. NCNP
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